Trip Report Wild Atlantic Way – Connemara & Cliffs of Moher
Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way takes you on an unforgettable journey of tiny roads reaching out into the ocean, dramatic cliffs, golden beaches, spectacular lighthouses and tranquil villages and towns.
This is the third post in a blog series authored by Melanie Nelson. She will share her day-to-day experiences of her trip along Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way, county by county. Today’s Trip Report takes you on a journey through Connemara, Kylemore Abbey, the breathtaking Cliffs of Moher, and picturesque village of Doolin.
Follow Melanie’s upcoming Blog Posts as she uncovers the myth & magic of Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way!
TODAY'S ITINERARY - connemara & cliffs of moher
Kerry Experience Tours guided us through a fantastically full day from Westport (County Mayo) to Doolin (County Clare) by way of Kylemore Abbey (the magnificent 1,000-acre estate and home to a Benedictine order of nuns for the past 100 years), traditional Connemara region in County Galway, Kilshanny (to visit Maggie's ancestral home in County Clare), and the spiritual Cliffs of Moher (my personal favorite).
WEATHER
Mostly cloudy breaking into a sun-filled late afternoon.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Churchfield B&B in Doolin conveniently located across from popular McDermott's Pub.
TIP: It was a challenge finding accommodation that could accommodate our group! Doolin is a popular destination as it's the gateway to the Aran Islands, and booking your place to stay at an early stage is strongly advised.
FOOD & DRINK
HIGHLIGHTS
2) We had a unique Irish experience spending time with Maggie's wonderful cousins (over the course of the week we met five!), visiting the family land and cemetery, and catching a glimpse into Irish farm life complete with chickens, geese, and peacocks. We thank Maggie’s family for their warm welcome.
INTERESTING PERSON
This afternoon we focused on Maggie's father's (Joseph O'Loughlin) family, visiting the O’Loughlin gravesite in Kilshanny Cemetery, so it only seems appropriate that we celebrate her proud Irish heritage. Joseph's parents were farmers Michael and Mary Leahy O'Loughlin of the small townland Carrowmanagh in the parish of Kilshanny, County Clare. Michael was born to Thomas and Margaret Mcgrath O'Loughlin in 1875. He had at least one older brother Patrick who died in his thirties and a younger brother and sister. The Catholic family probably had more children (we're still discovering).

Michael lived in his parent's three-room home on the family farm which also held a stable, two cow houses, one piggery, and a beautiful view into the valley. He married Mary, ten years his junior, in the Church of Rath in 1909. Mary was the daughter of farmer Patrick and Bridget Doheny Leahy, also of Kilshanny. Michael and Mary had several children. Consistent with the times, some immigrated, some stayed, and some died young (Thomas at age 3 and Michael at one month).
Maggie's O'Loughlin grandparents and great-grandparents rest with some of their other children in Kilshanny cemetery within sight of the farm still operating under the family's care.
BEST DISCOURSE
Maggie's lovely cousin Jersey delivered good humor during our brief visit. When discussing a weather warning for the following day's boat trip to the Aran Islands, he suggested, "Tomorrow's a day for the Pope...drink all day in the pub." Likewise, when asked the drive time to his farm from the cemetery, he wryly smiled and replied, "Well, how fast can you drive?"
Photos below: 1) Killary Fjord, Connemara 2) Doolin 3) Cliffs of Moher
Trip Reports
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